Monday, February 27, 2012

Finger position

Finger position is how your fingers or sheers are positioned in relation to the part.

When holding the hair, your fingers could be parallel to the part or not. Most cases you fingers will be parallel to the part when you cut.

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Projection

Projection is how the hair is lifted in relation to the natural curve of the head.

Think about a protractor. If you put the protractor on top of the head and pulled the hair straight up, you would be projecting the hair at 90 degrees. If you put the protractor on the back of the head and pulled the hair straight back you would be projecting the hair at 90 degrees.
Remember to "project" the hair based on the curve of the head.

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Distribution of the hair

Four types of distribution

Natural, perpendicular, shifted and directional.
Natural is exactly what it sounds like. The way your hair just falls due to gravity.
Perpendicular is when you pull the hair straight out at a 90 degree angle.
Shifted is anything other than a right angle.
Directional can change angles from one area to another.

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Parting the hair

Parting is just subdividing the sections even further.

You can part straight, diagonal or curvy lines depending on the shape you want the hair to have.
Example: If you want the back of the hair to be rounded you can use diagonal lines when parting.

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Sectioning the hair

Divide the hair into four sections.

Make a part from the front center hair line back to the crown.
Start at the center of the part and draw a straight vertical line down to the back of the ear.
Clip the front part out of the way and repeat on the other side.
You will now have 3 sections.
Now extend the center line down the back of the head to the nape.
Clip one section out of the way and you can begin the hair cut on the side that is left down.

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Anatomy of the head

The crest is where a head band would go.
Interior portion is the whole area above the crest.
Exterior portion is located below the crest.
Front is referenced from the ears to the face.
Back is from the ears back.
The fringe is the front temple area.
The occipital bone is the part that protrudes out on the back of your head.
The nape is located below the occipital bone.
The crown is above the occipital bone.

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Basics for Men's, Women's and Children's Haircuts

Some items you will need:

Cape
Spray Bottle
Combs (7 inch styling combs as well as rat-tail combs)
Butterfly or similar type hair clips
Hair cutting scissors
Clippers and trimmers
Clipper guards (blender, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2")
Optional-razor, thinning shears

Find a cape that is light weight. Towels and chemical capes are too bulky.
Most common comb is the 7 inch styling comb. Useful for measuring length.
A rat-tail comb is great for precise sectioning of the hair.
Be sure to use big enough clips to section off the hair easily.
You must use hair cutting scissors. House-hold scissors will not due. You don't need to get fancy but they need to be for cutting hair. Find something comfortable.

More on How to Cut Hair.